Don’t worry. I have not forgotten last month’s promises. We are still in the Caribbean, or the Antilles if you prefer, but last time, we threw out a name, the “West Indies”, that we never quite got around to explaining. The origin of the name “West Indies” dates back to a calculation “error” by Christopher Columbus on his first expeditions to America, when he assumed that by sailing due east, he had reached India, or at least the islands just off the Indian subcontinent. This is also why we call the area inhabitants “Indians”, although nowadays there are virtually no descendents from the original inhabitants left on the islands.
But that’s enough of side notes and historical tidbits. It is high time we get back to the physical reality, to practical information, and what better way to do that than by talking about the weather. For the most part, if we stick to geography manuals, the chapter on climate in the tropics usually distinguishes between two seasons: the dry season and the wet or rainy season, which vary in terms of the average precipitation received. However, in this case, we can also fall back on the more conventional terminology and divide the year into four seasons. The Caribbean winter, so to speak, which stretches from December to the beginning of April, is dominated by relatively cool temperatures averaging at around 20ºC (68ºF), calm weather and clear skies. This is followed by a short spring, lasting just two months, April and May, and is noted for its sudden, intermittent downpours with short but intense precipitation. The transition to summer, which extends from May to October, is characterized by hot, sticky, sweltering heat and rainfall that becomes increasingly more intense as it gives way to a brief autumn, marked by torrential rainstorms. In autumn, it doesn’t so much rain as pour.
Perhaps the key factor to keep in mind with these latitudes is the dreaded tropical storm season, i.e., the months when waterspouts and hurricanes move erratically and suddenly through this part of the world. The specific time to avoid begins in mid-July and runs through October, but keep in mind that climate and weather do not work like a Swiss clock and the season may begin early or end later on.
So far, we have taken a general look at the climate, but given our specific needs, it is also a good idea to emphasize the topic of winds, prevailing winds that always come from the same direction, from the ocean, from the east or northeast. As you have most certainly guessed, I am talking about the trade winds, the winds that favored international commerce several centuries back and were so important during the Age of Sail. Without going into too much detail, we can define the trade winds as a prevailing flow of air arising from the difference in pressure between the tropics and the area around the equator. At these latitudes in the Northern Hemisphere, the wind tends to blow from north to south to fill in the areas of low equatorial pressure. When the factor of the Earth’s rotation is added to the mix, we get the real direction of the wind, which curves and ends up coming from the northeast.
The constant direction of the trade winds gives way to another division of the islands based on their position with respect to the wind. Wind-wise, the Lesser Antilles can be divided into the Windward Islands, which were more windward and quicker to reach for ships arriving to the New World, and the Leeward Islands. The former begin at Dominica and stretch down to Grenadines or Trinidad and Tobago. The Leeward Islands begin in the north with the Virgin Islands, Anguilla and Saint Martin, or Sint Maarten to the Dutch, and continue southward to the French island of Guadeloupe. A third group of islands, the Leeward Antilles, comprises the islands that extend westward along the coast of South America from Margarita and Tortuga to Aruba and Curaçao.
After a general overview of this curious way of subdividing the islands, the only thing left to do is to zoom in on the areas of greatest interest to seafarers. Given the size of the area at hand and assuming that you do not have an unlimited amount of time, i.e., you have a year off to travel or are on a year’s sabbatical, I think it is worth making the distinction between several separate areas that can be ideal for a nautical charter.
First and foremost, given its size and importance in the region, we have to mention Cuba, a destination that has recently become the “in” place to be, especially as it refurbishes and opens more ports and marinas. It size allows for a pleasing combination of land excursions to centers of historical/cultural interest, especially for Spaniards, and fantastic anchorages including all the clichés of the Caribbean. We would rather not recommend any specific itinerary, since it is better to get in touch with companies on the island, which will have firsthand, up-to-date information. As for the rest of the Greater Antilles, only Jamaica, another one-of-a-kind destination that is very fashionable among English speakers, is opening up to the market for nautical tourism.
However, the heart of the Caribbean, or at least the prevailing image most have of this tropical paradise, is the Leeward and Windward Islands. I’m not going to go over the list of islands again, but I will mention events like the Stanford Antigua Sailing Week, which usually takes place in April, and the Heineken Regatta on Saint Martin in March, the two major nautical events of the year. Another recent newcomer is the Superyacht Cup, also held on Antigua, in December. The specific dates vary from year to year, but it is easy to keep informed on their respective websites. The most important ports, other than those already listed, are Saint Lucia, Guadalupe and Martinique, with the mythical city of Fort-de-France… However, the list is long and for more detailed information on ports, stopovers and idyllic anchorages, your best bet is to get a copy of the Jacques Patuelli’s guide, www.antilles-guide.com, a classic that can be found aboard most sailboats in the region.
I said above that this chain of islands is the very image of paradise, the Caribbean you see in postcards, documentaries, greens on blue, where land is almost always in sight and the wind caresses your sails. Even so, it is a good idea to take a moment to discuss some of the aspects of sailing on such seemingly paradisiacal waters. The trade winds are not exactly a spring breeze; they are more like a continuous flow of air that can reach more than 20 knots of medium intensity, something that is very interesting on a route that goes north to south. However, on the way back, it is better to hire a one-way, since sailing against wind and sea can be complex and cumbersome, with slamming guaranteed. It is one thing to sail in the shelter of the islands with occasionally violent patches but seas that are almost always manageable and quite another thing to go head on into the channels, the points of passage between the islands, that can sometimes become veritable roller coasters. The waves are full and swollen from the Atlantic, which makes it especially hard to sail against the wind. The groundswell sometimes even finds its way into bays and anchorages, leading to a balancing act that – take note – while not dangerous, can be rather uncomfortable. It is not a sea for beginners, and if you are a newbie, it is better to hire the services of a professional skipper.
Finally, to finish off our virtual journey, the group of islands known as the Leeward Antilles can also be regarded as a separate destination that is a little off the beaten track, despite the fame of some islands like Margarita.
Ah, and one last piece of advice that is applies to all of the Caribbean. The formalities at customs, fees, paperwork and bureaucracy in general can be very frustrating for anyone who frequently changes countries. A number of the small independent island states have strict entry and exit protocols, making a good idea to consult with companies operating in the area before working out an itinerary. Their advice will be extremely useful to you.
Fair winds and see you soon!
Loading ...